In a heavy Gota Patti embroidered Rajputi poshak and equally rich and heavy Rajputi jewellery (which you can find at JKJ & Sons Jewellery), the Rajasthani bride resembles a princess from the rich royal history of Rajasthan. The Mughals had a significant impression on the state and nowhere is it more evident than in their jewellery. Rajasthan is world renowned for its different jewellery styles.
This ancient art of jewellery making was conceived in the royal courts of Rajasthan. Since then, Jaipur has been the centre for Kundan jewellery. It has been in the spotlight ever since it epitomised Rajput royalty in the movie Jodha Akbar, which featured Aishwarya Rai in heavy Kundan jewellery.
Polki jewellery is made exclusively with gold and unfaceted or uncut diamonds. Hence Polki jewellery is generally more expensive than Kundan. The Rajasthani bride in heavy Kundan and Polki jewellery resembles a Rajput princess in all grandeur. She is bedecked in exquisite jewellery from head to toe. The maang tikka is called ‘Rakhdi’ or ‘Borla’. It is a signature piece of the state because unlike other styles, it usually ends in a huge bell-shaped or spherical piece embellished with precious stones. The ‘Sheeshphool’ is a chain of small rakhdis which forms a headband. Some wear ‘Khaancha’ in addition to sheeshphool. The Khaancha is a band worn on the upper forehead and has the Rakhdi attached at its centre.
The ‘Nath’ or ‘Nathni’ is a huge ornate nose ring worn on the left nostril and has a chain of pearls or precious stones, which is latched to the hair. The earrings worn are usually a variation of the jhumkas known as ‘Kundan Bhutti’. The collar neckpiece called ‘Aadh’ is a signature style of the Rajasthani bride. It is a broad and heavily decorated pendant which adorns the collarbone. The choker necklace of uncut diamonds called ‘Timaniya’ is another favourite. The waist long, heavily embellished necklace called the ‘Raani haar’ which means Queen’s necklace is a must for a Rajputi bride. A set of two gold bangles called ‘Bangadi’ is also accompanied with broad gold bracelets called ‘Gokharu’ or bracelet of white pearls called ‘Gajara’.
‘Choora’ are red bridal bangles made of lac which are accompanied with gold bangles encrusted with precious stones and diamonds. ‘Balaiya Kada’ is a broad flat bracelet which is popular among youngsters. The waist chain called ‘Kamarbandh’ or ‘Kardhani’ or ‘Tagdi’ made of gold and Polki or Kundan accentuates the waist. The armlet is called ‘Bajubandh’ and is made of gold and precious stones or Meenakari designs. The elaborate ‘Haath Phool’ designs are a testimony to the Mughal influence on Rajasthan. It consists of a statement centrepiece which is joined to the rings on each finger and the wrist, with chains of gold and precious stones, decorating the back of the palm and wrist. ‘Bichiya’which is a toe ring, usually made of silver and stones, is a mark of a married woman and is gifted to the bride on the eve of the wedding. Anklets also known as ‘Payal’, made of gold and precious stones adorn her feet.
Rajasthani bridal jewellery styles, particularly Kundan and Polki are in vogue, and is highly sought after by brides from other states as well.