Delicate bridal wear and ostentatious heritage wear ruled the third day at the first-ever digital India Couture Week (ICW) 2020 on September 20. Couturier JJ Valaya presented his Ottoman inspired winter collection is named after ‘Bursa’, a city which holds a special place in Ottoman history as their founding capital, and also as the birthplace of Ottoman architecture. On the other hand, Dolly J’s collection ‘Gulenaar’ highlighted what is suspended between dream and reality.
JJ Valaya’s Bursa
“In our legacy of many endearing firsts over nearly 3 decades, we once again look forward to being a part of yet another first in India, the FDCI Virtual India Couture Week,” says JJ Valaya.
Bursa had always been a fascination for historians, medieval explorers and travellers, including the likes of the famed traveller, Ibn Battuta, who on his visit to Bursa in 1331, was impressed by the then Sultan as he enjoyed the “city with the fine bazaars and wide streets, surrounded on all sides by gardens and running springs”. Valaya combines it with couture.
Researched inspirations for this year’s couture collection include the famed Ottoman silks, which were among the most characteristic and artistic products of the empire, besides the nomadic kilims of the period. Additionally, Ottoman miniatures, known as ‘Taswir’, which are painted to illustrate manuscripts or used in dedicated albums, and the art of ‘Tezhip’, (meaning ornamenting with gold), a non-figurative painted or drawn decorative art in books or on a sheet are eminently pervasive in this year’s collection. Also, part of the label’s discoveries this season are jewels of the Ottoman Empire, with the ‘Topkapi’ palace jewels, which are counted amongst the largest such treasuries in the Islamic world, holding the main treasures of the empire. Details of Turkish armour, especially the quills used then, as well as a medley of Turkish flora, fauna and fruits such as pomegranates further enrich this year’s collection.
The couture collection holistically reflects the usage of burnished metallics and golds to give an antique aesthetic to the garments, a distinguished signature of the brand. Delicate and intricate craftsmanship remains a Valaya essential and with Swarovski crystals, silk threads, beads, pearls and age-old Zardozi sewed into the gentle folds of fine silks and velvets, there is something extremely special about this collection that gives a nostalgic yet royal resonance.
Dolly J’s Gulenaar
“यूँ करीब से देख अपने गुरूर को,
पलकों पर परछाई तेरे जश्न की दिखे,
गुलों के नज़्म की गुलनार,
कभी जिन्दगी को यूँ इतराने दे
के तेरे आने से रौशन कायनात हो”
Nothing can dim the light that shines from within; nothing is more impressive than a “Gulenaar” who does not seek validation as she is confident in the extraordinary way Universe has created her.
Dolly J’s ICW 2020 couture collection “Gulenaar” is suspended between dream and reality. Keeping the current scenario in mind the ensemble is elaborate yet, “functional bridal wear”.
“Intricate handwork of silver and gold threads has taken prominence in the show. The collection has been specially designed keeping Indian weddings in mind. Heirloom chikankari has been given a new avatar with western drapes. We have developed a special fabric which is Luxe silk organza, woven with jacquard, for our discerning brides. The palette is rich with a mix of pastels and jewel tones. Singular in their exquisiteness and elegance, each ensemble is a piece of art and time-intensive.”
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