The last and final day of the first-ever India Couture Week 2020 was replete with romantic hues and nostalgia. Manish Malhotra presented his Fall Bridal ’20 collection that makes a dedicated effort to capture Mughar era’s visual spectacularity in its true grandeur and opulence. Anju Modi presented Sindoori – very special, lovingly crafted couture collection that heralds a new dawn for the brand, that paints a dream of colour and memory.
Manish Malhotra Fall Bridal ‘20
There are countless emotions embedded in our historical narratives, but the aesthetic universe of the Mughal era stands out distinctive. The visual imagery of clothes, make-up, and jewellery serves as one of the most refined craft treasures in India. The Fall Bridal ’20 couture collection makes a dedicated effort to capture this visual spectacularity in its true grandeur and opulence.
The couture range is charmed by the majesty of old-world regalia and takes the liberty to re-interpret the look in a more suitable palette for modern tastes. Revisiting the material milieu of the Mughal era, the collection comprises of kalidar kurtas, khada dupattas, ghararas, izar salwars for women and jama, angrakha and heavy shawls for men in pure and cotton silks, mashru, velvets, and muslins.
At the mere glance, the couture invokes the period magnum opus styling and appeal. The collection constitutes a big identity of Mughal cultural nuance with its rare, never-seen, and never-used before archival fabrics that brings forth the real fraction of the Mughal repertoire. These vintage textiles are over a century old and discern one with its unparalleled finesse. It comprises of accent borders that are zari-woven in original gold and silver.
The couture fabrics are hand-basted and hand-quilted for the aesthetic continuity, and palettes are strictly maintained to match the hues of natural dying like teal, pistachio green, dusky pink, grey, and maroon. The voluminous silhouettes, deft embroidery, fine layering all emerge together to form a harmonious Mughal sense of style.
The couture collection breaks-away from the aesthetics of fast-fashion couture and aims to revive the slow and purist workmanship of our indigenous craftsmen and artisans. It seeks to recall our age-old craft and techniques while keeping the first line of inspiration from the most enduring facets of Mughal living. Its art and architecture – vintage gardens, palaces, paintings, jewellery, museums, and costumes that are immortalized in the grand and diverse culture of India.
Anju Modi Couture 2020
A very special 2020 couture collection, Sindoori is an introspective and redefining moment for the couturier. This is a collection that goes back in time to the roots of the brand, to the core of its layered, exquisite workmanship, to the soul of the Anju Modi woman. Precious archival textiles and heritage embroideries are reborn, reimagined and reinvented with a contemporary eye. Memories of the past are given new life, crafted into modern heirlooms to last a lifetime.
Finding her muse in art comes naturally to Anju Modi, and she looks at everything from the intensely feminine works of Raja Ravi Varma to the intricate detailing of the
miniature painting tradition to spark inspiration and the imagination. The Sindoori couture collection features her signature mix of textile innovation and exquisite embroideries — the opulence and indulgence of mashru, brocades, jamdani and pashminas meet the ethereal craftsmanship of zardozi with dabka and mukaish and a sprinkling of foil print to create a collection that moves between tones and shimmers in the sun.
Soft, creamy ivories and muted marble tones in gorgeously crushed mulmul meet haldi hues that carry with them the joy and anticipation of the bride. Radiant ochres and deep geeli mehendi tones with vintage embroideries are an enduring memory of a gentler time and a promise of an abundant future. Fiery, intense reds with bursts of regal purple in precious vintage brocades make the bridal ensemble as powerful as it is passionate.
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